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Rob Singer's Single-Play Strategy

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Rob Singer is perhaps the most controversial of all video poker professional players, gurus and authors.  His style and strategy and methodology is unique and while some of it mirrors that of conventional video poker play, some of it is drastically different.  One of the basics of Rob Singer's strategy is something he calls his Single-Play Strategy which is sometimes the Singer Single Play Strategy or SPS.  While this is not an endorsement of Rob Singer's strategies, systems or methods of play, it is important, we think, that there is a place where video poker consumers can research his information.  Much has been said by Rob Singer and about Rob Singer and it's our opinion that having a central and permanent location for his information and strategy will allow everyone a better opportunity to study it and evaluate.

What follows here is Rob Singer's own description of his Single-Play Strategy.  No changes were made to his report.  His SPS is presented here exactly as he sent it to us.  This information is presented along with his "Special Plays" and his other comments and strategies about why he plays video poker hands the way he does.  Please see the other pages about Rob Singer's strategy and systems by clicking here.

THE SINGER SINGLE-PLAY STRATEGY by, Rob Singer

This is how I played it for 10+ years. It can also be played at other levels with exactly the same ratios between denominations. The strategy (SPS) utilizes 400 credits each at these levels: $1, $2, $5, $10, $25, & $100. That's a total of 2400 credits, or $57,200 (maximum session loss goal quitting point) that is being risked at a single session. The overall gambling bankroll requirement that I saved up for this effort was $171,600. That's 3X a single session bankroll because the math predicted that while losing two straight sessions without a cash out was remotely possible (1.4%) it was near impossible to lose three straight in that manner (.0035%).

The goal is to win a minimum $2500 in each session, and once that minimum was attained the session would end and I would not play another hand until I returned to Nevada (the only place the strategy was played) the following week. There are several events that would affect the play & win/loss goal procedure. First, mid-session illness or emergency (which never happened). If I were in the middle of a session and was down any amount or up less than the $2500 stop point and I was unable to continue and had to return home, the session result would be recorded as final and a new session would be started on my next trip. Secondly, if I had played thru the $25 level and was either behind for the session or ahead less than $2500, I would not go to the $100 machines IF my YTD average result per session was, at that point, equal to or greater than $2500. This happened a number of times.

The only games used to play SPS are the following: Bonus Poker or ACE$ BP for the basic game, then, in this order of preference on what I call "advanced BP games" (ABP), SDBP, TBP+, Super Aces BP, 10/7 DBP, 10/6 DDBP, Any DDBP. The 400 credits at each denomination level are always played 100 on the basic BP game, then 300 on ABP.

Special Plays that deviate from optimal play are used throughout, for the sole purpose of allowing an otherwise very probable or guaranteed small winner or push, the opportunity to turn into a session-ending big hit....or at least a big hit period. At inception, each special play was mathematically determined via individual risk analyses as to whether or not it would be used consistently, variably, infrequently, or however the hold best fit the particular "right now" scenario I was playing under. To be sure, the only way to become familiar with these--and in total there are more than 1700 of them, although many are very repititious because of similar valued cards in the deck and because of the number of different games in which they're used--is to be trained at an actual machine in real time circumstances, while also being willing to make them when the math play seems safer. When people say that to me I tell them "Are you here to get your money back on
all these plays and to see how many points you can accumulate in the process, or are you here to win money and to take advantage of certain advantageous holds that could greatly assist in that process"?

Many of the most controversial, yet hugely effective, special plays are in videos on Alan's site, but I'll identify one of my most commonly used special plays now--which is used in every game I play but SDBP and I'll explain why shortly. For example, you're dealt 7d 5c 8c Qd Jc or 2h Qd 4h 6s Jh. The optimal hold for both cases is the offsuit JQ, but that's not what I do. In both instances, I hold just the Q. Why? Because my strategy takes penalty cards to the next level. Both examples have the J matched up with two other similarly suited cards, while in one case the Q has one similarly suited card and in the other case it has none. So, because of the situation where optimal play disregards this situation and says to hold the offsuited two high cards in the primary & overriding hope of simply getting your money back, SPS penalizes all three cards of the same suit--even though in 10/6 DDBP & 10/7 DBP the flush pays 30 & 35 respectively--and the
result is holding a single high card where almost anything can happen at that point, and has for me including a $5 session-ending royal at Mandalay Bay that surprised the heck out of me.

Enter SDBP. This is a game where, on every two-unsuited-high-card dealt hands, one high card is always held regardless if there is only one or no other suit-matching cards on the deal. In every case, you hold the card with the least number of similarly-suited cards dealt, and a J is always looked at as being the card to hold first when suit-matches are a tie. Of course, in all cases an Ace is held alone no matter what when it is one of the dealt, unsuited high cards in any game.

Now onto playing the strategy. (Note: The following example of a session is one that requires a longer-than-usual amount of time playing, because I wanted to include as much of the strategy's uniqueness as I could). Start with 100 credits on the BP game. If at any time you get ahead 40 credits or more, you cash that out into a soft-profit pool and start again with the 100 original credits. Those soft profits usually do add up, and sometimes though not frequently, have in and of themselves and usually with a normal quad or SF hit, comprised of enough value to be able to quit with at least an overall net profit of a minimum $2500.

Now say you start up once again and lose the 100 BP credits this time, and let's say you have $55 in your soft-profit pool. You then put in 300 credits and play SDBP (or whatever ABP game is available per my preference list). Here you continue to cash out into your soft-profit pool whenever you get 40 credits minimum above the 300 credits. However, now your first mini-goal is to get back to playing a fresh 100 credits on the BP game. That is accomplished only by having a single hit that wins back any credits lost on SDBP plus recovers the 100 credits lost on BP, plus makes at least a 5 credit profit over and above all that. So if you are 140 credits into SDBP and get four 7's putting you 110 credits ahead on SDBP, you've recovered what you lost (140 credits) on SDBP, you've recovered what you lost (100 credits) on BP, and you have a 10 credit profit that goes into your soft-profit pool. You now have $65 in soft profit.

Now you start at $1 BP again. You lose it. You play 300 credits on SDBP and you lose that. Now you put in 100 credits and play $2 BP. Here, your first mini-goal is again, to return to $1 BP with at least a 5 credit profit (which is $10 because you're playing at the $2 level). After playing thru 70 credits you hit four 4's. That recovers the 70 $2 BP credits you lost, but it doesn't recover the 300 dollar SDBP credits and the 100-$1 BP credits lost so you cannot go back to playing $1 BP. So you instead put the remaining 130 credits (200 won from the four 4's minus the 70 lost on $2 BP) into your soft-profit pool, making it now $325 (the provious $65 + the $260 now being added in). You are essentially treating the four 4's hit as a 40-credit -or-greater cashout that goes into your soft-profit pool, only on all levels over dollars you must first deduct what your BP recovery amounts to before adding to the soft profit.

So you start again on $2 BP, and you get ahead by 45 credits this time. Those 45 credits ($90) go into your soft-profit pool, making it now stand at $415, and you start again on $2 BP. This time you lose it, then you put 300 credits in to play $2 SDBP. Here you get one cashout of 40 credits and that's all, so you put another $80 into soft profit making it total in at $495 so far. You are now ready to play at the $5 level. In summary, you've lost $1200 (400 credits at both the $1 & $2 levels) and you have $495 in your soft-profit pool, so if you got appendicitus and had to quit right here you'd go home with a $705 loss. But as luck has it, you instead are ready for the next level.

Now you put in 100 credits to play BP @ the $5 level. You lose that with no cashouts. You then put in 300-$5 credits and begin on TBP+ because at this level where you're playing they do not have SDBP. 170 credits into this game you hit a SF. Here comes your first W2G of the day ($2500) and you delight in not tipping the expectant floor, who seem to all have their hands out after conspicuously counting off the last hundred in twenties. Yes you've recovered your lost 170 credits at $5 ($850) but what happens to the other $1650? Well, $500 of that is used to recover the lost 100 credits on $5 BP, leaving $1150. But is that enough to be able to re-start on $2 BP or even go back to dollars and start fresh again on $1 BP? There's certainly enough to recover all 400 credits lost on $2 games, and that leaves you with $350, but it is not enough to recover all 400 credits lost at the $1 level plus make at least a 5 credit profit for the soft-profit pool.
Instead, you must re-start at $2 BP and put $350 into soft profits, making that now total $845.

Here you are again on $2 BP. You lose it. You also lose the 300 credits on $2 SDBP. Pity. But your hopes are sky-high as you play $5 BP, but you lose that too with no cashouts. You do get a 40 credit cashout on $5 TBP+ (making your soft-profit pool now stand at $1045) but you run into a cold streak and lose all 300 credits. Now you have to play at the $10 limit.

You insert $1000 for 100 ten dollar credits and begin playing BP. From here on up you follow the same logic as in the earlier denominations. Of course, one good hit and many times you're out of the casino with at least a $2500 profit--which a Royal Flush at any denomination automatically accomplishes. But let's say you lose the 100 credits with no cashouts, but 210 credits into TBP+ you hit four 3's for a $6000 W2G. You use that to cover the $2100 lost already on TBP+, you use it to cover the $1000 lost on $10 BP, you use it to cover all 400 credits lost ($2000) at the $5 level, and you use it to cover all 400 credits lost ($800) on the $2 level. That's a total of $5900 in recovery, $100
goes into the soft-profit pool because of the 5 credit minimum rule (which is now $1145) and you can re-start playing on $2 BP again. Tedious? Not at all, because what you're doing as you gamble is you're enjoying yourself as you systematically transfer more and more money from the casino coffers into your pocket, and you're actually involved in a very structured method of playing rather than just sitting there like a monkey banging away at the keys aimlessly on a single denomiation and game as the AP's always find themselves doing.

Now you're back on $2 BP playing another 100 credits, but you lose not only that but the 300 SDBP credits at that level also...and also without any cashouts. You then proceed to lose your next 100 credits on $5 BP without a cashout, but on your 2nd hand of TBP+ (after losing your 1st hand) you hit your session-ending hit of four Aces, or $6000. Here, you have recovered your $50 invested in the $5 TBP+ game, your $500 lost on $5 BP, all 400 credits lost on $2 (or $800) and all 400 credits lost on dollars (or $400). Your recovery = $1750, meaning you now have a profit from this hit of $4250, which when added to your soft-profit pool amount of $1145, you're net win for the session is $5395. Not bad....especially after thinking about how your local video poker "pro" who would have been pounding away at the same denomination, would either be behind or slightly ahead for the day. Big whoop!

Here's where the criticisms start up again. My policy was always to only play no more than one session a week. It has nothing to do anything other than to be able to thoroughly enjoy the 300 mile ride home knowing I've beaten the casinos again, and to live a life with my family in-between these weekly casino visits without being constantly lured into playing just because the casinos were close by. I never played at Indian casinos other than to train others or to cash in free play from any training where I used my money and slot card. To do so would have been like giving my stamp of approval to casinos that I know are not on the up & up.

Submitted by Rob Singer on October 6, 2012

You can order Rob Singer's two books by sending an email to rsinger1111@cox.net for ordering instructions.

"The Undeniable Truth About Video Poker identifies the shortfalls and fallacies of following the commercialized long-term strategy," says Rob Singer, "and it touches on how I have made the successful transition from a losing long-term strategist to a winning player who developed his own math-based play strategy. Ramblin' & Gamblin' Thru Nevada is a month-long journey I took around every nook and cranny in Nevada, going to many out-of-the-way places, meeting people of all types, and playing in many of the state's casinos. It is an adventure that goes far beyond that of gambling." Each book is $5.

Here on our new media website "Moneyman" Alan Mendelson who is the original Best Deals TV Show reporter on KCAL9 and consumer advocate, shows you the best deals on TV, and the best buys, bargains and where savvy shoppers go to save, and how to get the most for "your money" with the best of Los Angeles, Orange County, Ventura County, Riverside County and San Bernardino County. Some content on www.alanbestbuys.com is paid advertising. The Best Buys TV Show is a paid infomercial program which may also include news and information which is not sponsored or paid for by advertisers.

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